Harvesting honey is the most satisfying job for a beekeeper and yet most people got no clue how to do it right. It's not their fault, all aspects of beekeeping (especially honey harvesting) have a steep learning curve that can really only be taught by hands on experience. In order to help other beekeepers, I will give a step by step breakdown for harvesting honey from start to finish.
I assume you have a basic understanding of beekeeping and already have the basic equipment like a hive tool, smoker, and bee suit. If you're interested, feel free to check out our guides on the best beekeeping suits, or how to start beekeeping. I've even made a detailed beginning beekeeping eBook you might like too. It's best for first year beekeepers.
Before we begin It's important to point out that most of the information discussed today will be applicable to any location, but it's always a good idea to make friends with local beekeepers in your area to get location specific information and advice.
Understanding Bee Behavior and Timing
To successfully harvest honey, it's important to know the life cycle of bees, the best times to gather honey, and how bee activity changes with the seasons.
Life Cycle of a Bee
I focus on bee life stages to know when they are most active. Eggs hatch into larvae, then develop into pupae, and finally mature as adults. This cycle affects hive behavior. In order to maximize honey production you need an enormous amount of bees in the colony. This requires a healthy queen laying thousands of eggs long before the first drop of honey is produced in a cell.
Before the queen can lay any eggs, there must be comb on the frames. This is produced by young nurse bees. Which again requires a healthy queen and the right environment. On new hives it will take time for the frames to be drawn with wax comb. Established hives should have comb drawn from last season which makes it easier for the queen to begin laying massive amounts of eggs to build up the work force.
Worker bees are the most crucial for honey gathering. They begin foraging about three weeks after becoming adults. I notice their foraging patterns, which help plan harvesting.
An understanding of these stages tells me when bees will be busy or calm in the hive. This way, I limit disturbance when opening it.
Botany Meets Beekeeping
I often joke about how beekeeping will turn you into an amateur botanists and most people find that odd. But it's true! Without plants, there is no work for honeybees to perform. Their one job on earth is to collect nectar from plant blossoms to bring back to the colony to produce honey which is their food source during times of dearth (no plant blossoms).
As a beekeeper you must learn the local nectar sources in your area along as well as the timing of bloom. This information can be found via Google for a general idea of the local plants and blossom dates. But you may also have specific crops or nectar sources specific to your location which is important to know so that you can plan your honey harvest accordingly. The best way to learn for a new beekeeper is to join a local bee club and become friends with other beekeepers in your area. They'll know.
When a large amount of flowers are in bloom creating nectar the worker bees quickly begin working to produce honey., this phenomenon is called a "Honey Flow". During a Honey flow a healthy colony can fill a 10 frame box of frames in less than a week if there is available comb ready. to store it. That's why it's imperative to know when the various plants bloom in your specific area.
It's important to note that weather plays a huge role in flower/nectar production. There can be thousands of flowering plants in your area, but if there is a drought the plants will produce very little nectar. On the flip side, too much rain can cause the pollen and nectar to wash off of the flowers resulting in slow honey production. Freezing temperatures can damage flower blossoms resulting in no nectar production. Keep your eye on the weather as well as available nectar sources before you just assume you're "in the honey".
Preparing for the Honey Flow: Adding Supers
Throughout the spring colony buildup and into the first honey flow, frequent Hive checks are essential to to make sure your bees are healthy and happy.
During the honey flow frequent hive checks are imperative in order to observe honey storage in the supers. You must ensure the hive has room to store their surplus nectar. A good rule of thumb is when the super has 7-8 out of 10 frames full mostly capped honey, it's time to give them another super.
Adding another super does several things to benefit your colony and ultimately your honey production:
- Honeybees need work to do, adding another super to their hives gives them work to prepare the comb for honey storage, if the frames are new, they'll have to build new comb on the frames which is a lot of work.
- provides them with more space - by the time a healthy colony has reached a Honey flow, it's busting at the seams with bees. Adding a super gives them more space inside the hive which slightly reduces their instinct to swarm
- Gives them more room to store honey, which is the main goal for most beekeepers
Timing Your Honey Harvest
Three main factors go into timing your honey harvest. I'll list them and discuss each one.
- Available empty supers
- Nectar flow
- Weather
- Bee Behavior
Available Empty Supers
This will most likely be the determining factor for when you will harvest assuming the weather is good and the colony is healthy and in a good honey flow. Why? Because like we mentioned earlier your bees need room to store honey. Supers can be stacked up as high as you want, I've seen hives with 5-6 supers on top.
Let's assume you only plan to stack your hives with 3 honey supers, this means you need 3 honey supers per hive.
Do you have 3 honey supers per hive put together, painted and ready to place on the hive? Hopefully you do, and hopefully the comb is already drawn so they can fill it with honey right away.
What I'm trying to say is when you run out of supers to add to your colony, it's time to extract the honey.
Nectar Flow
Another important factor to consider is nectar flow. You really don't want to rob bees in a dearth when there's little to no nectar flowing. Why? The bees know when the nectar isn't flowing. Remember when I told you that bees need work to do? You will have thousands of bees standing around in the hive with nothing to do but attack you for trying to steal their honey.
Not to mention, opening a hive and robbing honey in a dearth will cause robbing instincts to kick in. This is where neighboring colonies smell honey in other colonies and decide to steal it to bring to their colony. This can be devastating for the colony and usually happens to the weakest hive.
As a general rule, only extract when there are some flowers in bloom, not in a drought. When you find your local beekeeping friends like I told you earlier, find out what rough dates they usually extract. In my area , the final main honey extraction occurs around July 4th. This is because after this date, most of the local blooms are done production nectar and the seasonal weather typically turns very dry and not ideal for nectar production.
Weather
We touched on the weather aspect a few times already, but basically make sure you're not robbing your bees in the middle of a drought due to the reasons I just mentioned. You obviously will also want to plan the harvest for a nice sunny day.
It's important to note that it helps to have a couple of days after harvest with no rain so that you can lay your equipment outside for the bees to clean without rain damage. This isn't a deal breaker because you could place the equipment under a shed or protect it from rain with a piece of tin or come up with something. It's just nice to be able to work outside the days following a Honey harvest without any rain in my experience.
Bee Behavior
You want to try to rob bees in the morning around 8:00 - 10:00 AM. This is because at this time most of the workers will be out in the field collecting nectar. This means less bees in the hive to defend the honey which will require less effort, less stings, and less stress.
It's also a good time of day because most of the honey will be dried and capped. Later in the day more new nectar will have been brought in, this honey isn't ready to harvest because they haven't had time to dry and cap it yet.
Bee Activity During Seasons
Bee activity changes with seasons and is vital in honey production. In spring, bees become active and expand the hive. It's a time of growth and honey storage. This will depend on your location, but nectar producing plants bloom as early as January/February. This means technically you could see honey production very early in spring.
By the time summer comes around, your honeybees should be in full blown work mode. You should see every frame in the hive completely covered with bees as well as piled up bearding on the outside of the hive.
This is because they have spent all spring raising brood and expanding, by now the hot weather increases their activity.
As autumn nears, bees prepare for winter. Again, depending on your location you may have one last smaller honey flow from late blooming plants like goldenrod, aster, and boneset.
How you handle this late nectar flow will depend on your harvesting goals. Most of the larger commercial beekeepers around me tend to harvest all of the spring and summer honey and leave the late nectar for the bees. This is a good strategy for a few reasons.
This allows you to safely harvest all of the honey in the honey supers for yourself. As long as the weather cooperates, the bees should be able to gather enough nectar from the late blossoms in fall to go into winter. Another reason the big producers take this strategy is because the later fall honey usually has a distinct smell to it.
It's hard to explain the smell of this honey from goldenrod other than a sweaty sock, lol. It's a pungent stinky smell that could potentially turn off their unknowing customers who may not appreciate the different taste and smell of the late blossoms "fall honey".
It's really a personal preference type of thing, some people love the darker goldenrod/fall honey while others turn their nose up at it. Smaller beekeepers will probably want to harvest some fall honey, I personally love it. What you decide to do is up to you, but a good rule to follow is this:
Only harvest the honey in the supers. Leave the honey in the brood chambers, it's for the bees.
Again, all of this is location dependent. The basic idea is to pay close attention to the amount of stored honey available in your hives for your bees going into winter. The strategy in my area is to harvest all honey by mid July. Begin feeding sugar syrup and treating for mites in August. As the nectar production and feeding slows in September, the queen starts slowing egg production. In October, a late bloom provides one last boost of nectar and pollen. This nectar and pollen will be back-filled in the brood comb leaving the bees with a very heavy double deep colony full of honey for them to safely endure winter.
Safety and Precautions
Before we go any further, I need to mention the importance of safety. I use the right gear, work carefully to avoid being stung, and know how to handle allergic reactions if they happen. Here’s how I manage these things effectively.
Personal Protective Equipment
Safety comes first, and I always wear protective gear especially during honey harvesting. A bee suit is essential. It covers my entire body and keeps me safe from stings. The suit should be light-colored and made of thick material. I also wear gloves to protect my hands. A veil or hat with a net covers my face and neck. This is crucial because these areas are sensitive.
Sturdy boots can help protect my feet. I make sure the pants overlap the boots so no bees can get in. Inspecting my gear before each use is also important to ensure there are no holes or tears. This equipment helps me stay safe while harvesting.
Minimizing Bee Stings
Working smoothly and calmly near the bees helps minimize stings. Quick movements can upset them. I move gently and avoid sudden gestures. Using a smoker helps calm the bees. It works by masking their alarm pheromones.
When I approach the hive, I do so from one side. This avoids blocking their flight path. I avoid wearing strong smells like perfumes or deodorants. These can aggravate the bees. Being stung can still happen, but these steps make it less likely.
Allergic Reaction Preparedness
It’s crucial to be prepared for allergic reactions. I always have an epinephrine auto-injector close by in case of a severe reaction. Knowing how to use it is vital. I also tell someone nearby about what to do in an emergency.
Identifying symptoms early is key. Signs include swelling or difficulty breathing. When in doubt, I seek medical help right away. Learning how to manage an allergic response can make a huge difference in staying safe. Having an action plan ensures that I’m prepared for any eventuality.
Tools and Equipment
Harvesting honey requires specific tools and equipment to ensure a smooth process. I focus on essential gear, selecting the right extractor, and maintaining the equipment to make honey collection efficient and safe.
Essential Tools for Honey Harvesting
You'll need honey harvesting equipment. There are thousands
Next you'll need to decide how you will effectively separate stubborn bees from their precious honey frames. Of course, there are a few different methods to choose from and they each have their pros and cons:
Bee Brush Method
The bee Brush Method is pretty straight forward and how I did it for my first few years as a beekeeper. It's really only a viable option for smaller apiaries in my opinion. This method involves removing each honey frame one by one and gently brushing the bees off of the frame. It helps to have a plastic tote with a lid to put the frames in after clearing the bees from the frame.
Pros - simple, straightforward process. No chemicals, relatively safe for bees. Can be dangerous due to massive swarming of angry bees depending on the strength of the colony.
Cons - Slow, labor intensive, not efficient and not viable for more than 3-5 colonies.
Bee Escape Device
This is a clever device made of wood that is placed between the honey supers and the brood chambers. It allows bees to pass from the honey super down into the brood chambers but they can't return to the honey super.
How it works: The device is placed on the hive a day or two before you plan to harvest. Usually in 24-48 hours all of the bees will have escaped the honey super for you to pull the boxes for harvest.
Pros - safe and effective way to remove bees from honey supers without chemicals. Once the device is set in place, the bees will clear from all of the supers allowing for fast robbing on harvest day.
Cons - Costly, if you have a dozen hives you'll have to buy one for each hive which can add up to a relatively large investment. Somewhat labor intensive since you have to lift all of the heavy honey supers to place the escape device underneath them. If you have over ten hives with three honey supers each, that's a pretty good back workout.
Fume Board
I'm aware that these days, most people expect everything to be chemical free. But the hard truth is some chemicals are very helpful, especially in agriculture. You have to decide if you are willing to make slight compromises in order to be more efficient.
A fume board is a piece of plywood cut to the exact size of a Honey super with a 1.5" rim around the edge. The underside of the plywood is fitted with absorbent cloth material. A chemical called "Bee Gone" (Butyric anhydride) or "Bee Quick" (Benzaldehyde) is applied lightly to the cloth material and allowed to sit in the sun for several minutes to activate.
How it works: The hive cover and inner cover are removed and the stink board is placed on top of the top super. The chemical fumes have a very unpleasant smell which causes the bees to leave the top honey super and exit the hive at the bottom entrance. The fume board is usually left on the super for 10-15 minutes or checked periodically until all or most of the bees have left the super. When all of the bees have exited the super, it is pulled and the fume board is placed on the next super until all supers have been pulled from the hive.
Ideally you would have several fume boards so that you can place them on multiple hives at the same time, which speeds up the process. It's also important to note that while these chemicals are not organic, they have been studied and the fumes do not penetrate the wax capping the honey. It also does not hurt the bees in any way. I would be willing to bet that over 75% of all commercial beekeepers use this method to safely rob honey from their colonies.
Pros - quick, efficient, safe, and effective way to safely rob honey supers
Cons - uses a chemical that is not organic.
At the end of the day, you will have to decide your method of safely robbing your honeybees. Most people start with the brush method and quickly realize that it's an inefficient method and not possible with more than 3-5 hives.
It's important to note that most honey harvesting is done in the hot sun. Where I live temperatures are usually pushing mid 90's and it's very humid. Anything I can do to speed up the process of robbing bees is welcome. It's better for the bees to get in there and get out as quick as possible to reduce stress on them. It's also safer for you to get in and out, with pants and a bee suit, veil and gloves, monitoring your heat exposure and water consumption is very important. Time is of the essence, and for that reason, I tend to think the fume board is a fair compromise.
How to Rob Honeybees
In any of these methods, you need to protect the supers that have been removed from the colony while you're robbing or the bees will just fly over to where you placed them and stay there.
The bee Brush Method I mentioned using some large plastic totes with lids to store the honey frames so that the bees cant get to them while your robbing. This is perfect for small apiaries, but for larger apiaries it won't work.
Just to give you an idea, an apiary with just 25 hives could have up to 75 honey supers to rob. That's up to 750 honey frames!
Big numbers require big answers. Some beekeepers use a pick up truck to harvest honey. The supers are cleared of bees and placed in the back of a truck. A tarp is pulled over the honey supers to prevent bees from re-entering the super. It's not 100% effective, but it works.
I personally use a tractor with a trailer with a large tarp. The supers are pulled and I run the tractor back to my barn where I back the tractor in, disconnect the trailer and close the doors. Any remaining bees are gently removed with a small vacuum and released back outside. Honey extraction is done right there in the barn which is well lit, clean concrete floor, sink, electricity, and a good radio to listen to while we work.
Choosing the Right Extractor
Choosing an extractor is important for getting honey out of the frames. There are two main types: manual and electric. Each has its pros and cons.
Manual extractors are hand-operated and great for small-scale beekeeping. They are less expensive but require more effort.
Electric extractors make the process faster and easier, especially for large batches. These can be more costly but save time and energy.
I choose my extractor based on my needs, budget, and the amount of honey I expect to harvest.
Maintenance of Equipment
Maintaining my equipment extends its life and ensures the honey quality. Cleaning is the first step. After each use, I clean my tools to remove wax and honey residue. This prevents contamination.
I inspect my extractor regularly, checking for wear and tear. Parts like the drum and cage should be in good condition to avoid problems during extraction.
Storage is also key. I store all tools in a dry, safe place to prevent damage. Proper maintenance ensures everything is ready for the next harvest season.
Pre-Harvest Preparation
Before harvesting honey, I need to get ready by making sure the hive is healthy, the honeycomb is ripe, and I've got the right tools. This preparation is crucial to ensure a smooth and successful honey harvest.
Inspecting the Hive
The first step is to inspect the hive thoroughly. I look for signs of healthy bees, like active movement and a gentle hum. It's important to check for any signs of diseases or pests such as mites or beetles.
I need to make sure the hive structure is intact with no damages or leaks. If I notice excessive moisture or dampness, I take steps to fix it. This inspection helps me keep the bees safe and the hive in good condition.
Assessing Honeycomb Readiness
Next, I assess if the honeycomb is ready for harvesting. I look for capped honey cells, which means the bees have finished the honey-making process. The cells should be sealed with a white wax cap.
It's important to have at least 80% of the combs capped before starting the harvest. This ensures the honey is fully ripened and won't spoil. If the honeycomb is uncapped, I allow more time for the bees to finish their work.
My bee mentor taught me a high tech method of marking the hives with honey supers that were ready for harvest that I still use to this day... I place a stick on top of the hives that are ready to be harvested. Lol
Smoker Usage
Using a smoker helps me calm the bees during the harvest. The smoker creates cool, white smoke that makes the bees relaxed and less likely to sting. I light the smoker using dried leaves, pine needles, or woodchips.
I carefully puff smoke into the entrance and around the hive. This makes the bees believe there's a fire, causing them to consume honey and become docile. It's important to use the smoker gently, avoiding too much smoke, which can stress the bees.
Harvesting Techniques
Before collecting honey from a beehive, it's important to know how to handle the frames and the honeycomb. I'll explain how to remove frames, uncap the honeycomb, and choose the best extraction methods.
Uncapping Honeycomb
After removing the frames, I need to uncap the honeycomb cells. These cells have a layer of wax that seals in the honey. To remove this wax, I use an uncapping knife or fork.
By passing the tool gently over the cells, I open them up. It's important to keep the tool warm, making it easier to cut through the wax. I work steadily to avoid damaging the comb structure.
Removing the wax allows the honey to flow out during extraction. I collect the wax cappings in a separate container; they can be used for other purposes.
Extraction Methods
With the honeycomb uncapped, I am ready to extract the honey. There are several methods available, but I tend to use an extractor. This device spins the frame quickly, using centrifugal force to pull the honey out of the cells.
For this, I insert the frames into the extractor and turn the handle. The honey collects at the bottom and can be filtered before bottling. Another option is to crush the honeycomb and strain the honey, but this destroys the wax comb.
Choosing a method depends on my needs and resources. Each technique has its pros and cons. Using the extractor is efficient and preserves the comb for reuse.
Post-Harvest Processing
After harvesting honey, I focus on processing to ensure quality. This involves filtering impurities, handling crystallized honey, and storing it properly.
Filtering Honey
Filtering honey is essential to remove debris and wax particles. I start by pouring the honey through a fine mesh strainer. This helps capture larger particles. If finer filtering is needed, cheesecloth or a nylon strainer works well. Temperature is important. I warm the honey slightly to make it flow better. This makes filtering easier and retains more of its natural properties.
Small impurities can affect the taste and clarity. Filtering keeps the honey smooth and appealing. Once filtered, the honey is ready for the next steps in processing.
Decrystallizing Raw Honey
Crystallization occurs naturally in honey. To return it to a liquid state, I use gentle heat. Here's a simple method: I place the jar of crystallized honey in a pan of warm water. Maintaining the water temperature between 95°F and 110°F helps prevent overheating. It’s crucial to avoid high temperatures as they can damage the honey.
I sometimes use a slow cooker on the lowest setting, but always with care. Occasionally stirring the honey helps speed up the process. Decrystallized honey has the same quality as fresh honey.
Storage and Bottling
Proper storage is vital for honey's longevity. I store honey in airtight glass jars to shield it from moisture and air, which can degrade quality. Dark and cool places, away from direct sunlight, are ideal for storage. This maintains both flavor and nutritional value. If you interested in learning how to sell jar honey, be sure to check out my beekeepers book.
Before bottling, I ensure each jar is clean and dry. Filling jars leaves a small space at the top to accommodate any slight expansion. Once capped, I label each jar with the type of honey and the date. This systematic approach keeps the honey fresh and organized.
Quality and Preservation
When it comes to honey, maintaining quality is key. It's important to test its purity and store it properly. This ensures the best taste and longevity of your honey.
Testing Honey Quality
I always begin by checking the moisture content. This is crucial because moisture above 20% can lead to fermentation. I use a refractometer for this test.
Next, I look at the clarity of the honey. Cloudy honey might indicate impurities like wax or pollen. A quick check with a spoon can help. If it looks clear, the quality is usually good.
I also test for crystallization. Some honey naturally crystallizes faster than others. It's often a sign of authenticity but can affect texture. I warm a small sample to check if it dissolves back to its liquid form.
Long-Term Honey Preservation
To preserve honey, I keep it in a cool, dark place. This prevents changes in flavor or color. I use sealed glass jars with tight-fitting lids.
Temperature control is critical. Heat can cause the honey to darken and lose its aroma. Ideal storage temperature is around 50°F.
Also, I avoid exposing honey to air. Excessive air can lead to moisture absorption, which may ruin the honey. If I notice any moisture, I ensure the jar is properly sealed next time.
Best Practices for Flavor Retention
Maintaining flavor is as important as preservation. I prefer using food-safe containers to prevent any taste contamination.
I never store honey near strong-smelling substances because it can absorb odors. Keeping different honey types separate preserves their distinct flavors.
If honey crystallizes, I gently warm it in a water bath. This helps return it to a liquid state without ruining the flavor. Too much heat can change its taste, so I stay cautious.
Regular checks for crystal size and moisture levels ensure the honey's flavor remains intact over time.
Sustainable Practices
To keep honey collection sustainable, I focus on maintaining healthy hives and using eco-friendly methods. Ensuring the well-being of the bees and their environment guarantees long-term benefits.
Supporting Hive Health After Harvest
After gathering honey, it's crucial to support the hive. I usually make sure there's enough honey left for the bees. This helps them feed and grow strong, especially during colder times. Also, I look into pest control. Treating pests naturally, without chemicals, protects bees from harm.
I keep an eye on hive temperatures and ventilation. Proper airflow stops moisture buildup, which can cause mold. Sometimes, I add more bees during spring. This helps replace any lost workers. I also inspect for diseases and parasites regularly.
Checking for mites, like Varroa, is part of my routine. If I spot issues, I use natural treatments. Maintaining hive health is an ongoing process. It helps support bee populations and ensures a steady honey supply each year.
Eco-Friendly Beekeeping
Using eco-friendly practices in beekeeping makes a big difference. I avoid pesticides and synthetic substances in hives. Instead, I focus on natural pest control and habitat management. It's important to choose hive materials carefully. I prefer natural, untreated wood to minimize chemical exposure.
I also try to plant bee-friendly flowers around the area. This provides additional nectar sources. Encouraging a diverse range of plants supports biodiversity too. Rainwater collection systems can be useful. They provide water for bees without wasting resources.
By implementing these methods, I reduce my impact on the environment. Eco-friendly beekeeping keeps the ecosystem balanced. It ensures that bees can thrive without harming their habitat. Sustainability starts with these thoughtful practices. If you wanna try some of my honey, be sure to check out honey store.
Frequently Asked Questions on How To Harvest Honey
I've gathered some questions about honey harvesting. From the best times to collect honey, to the tools needed, and safety tips, I'll help you understand what you need to know.
How Much Honey To Expect From Your Bees?
What is the best time to harvest honey from a hive?
I usually find that late summer to early fall is best. This is when the honey is mature, and bees have had time to gather enough nectar. Checking the weather is important because dry days are ideal.
What equipment is needed to extract honey from the comb at home?
For home extractions, I recommend using a hive tool, a bee smoker, a bee suit, honey jars, and strainers. A manual extractor can be handy but isn't necessary for small amounts.
Can you harvest honey straight from a beehive in a tree?
Climbing up to a natural bee hive poses risks. I suggest contacting a professional if you need to collect honey from a high tree hive. Safety comes first.
What are the steps involved in harvesting honey without using an extractor?
I first remove the combs from the hive. Then, I scrape the honey into a bowl using a knife. After that, I strain out the wax using a fine mesh. Collecting honey this way requires patience.
How can a beginner properly harvest honey for the first time?
For beginners, I recommend starting with a small hive. Learning to suit up properly to avoid stings is key. Watching a few online tutorials can provide visual aid and boost confidence.
What safety measures should be taken when harvesting honey by hand?
Wearing protective clothing is a must. I always ensure my bee suit fits well, covering my entire body. Having a smoker helps calm the bees, making it safer to work.
